Simplicity 2648 Pattern Review: The Finished Graduation Dress

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Project Info

Sewing Pattern: Simplicity 2648

"This fab pattern comes with different options for slim, average and curvy figures and is packed with instructions on getting a good fit. A simple shape that is easily adaptable, stylish and modern. "

Francesca Haselden 4

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April came over a few Saturdays ago, we were due to go on holiday on the Monday and I was starting to get so worried about the dress! Luckily she was there to help pin me into it and see where it didn’t quite fit, so I can finally complete my Simplicity 2648 pattern review!

We started by drafting a skirt based on my measurements to fit the bodice. It went really well! The waistline didn’t fit in perfectly which worked out great as it meant I could continue the princess seam lines with some darts. I just pinned in the sides to match, found the centre front and then pinched in my own darts in the same place as the princess seams.

Simplicity 2648 Pattern Review

The problem we ended up having was that the skirt didn’t fit around the bum. The reason for this seems pretty obvious now, I’m bigger on the backside than the frontside! When we measured, we started with my waist and hip circumference and then halved the number to create a front and back. What we really needed was an uneven split to allow for more room in the back.

In the end, for the final piece I went for a draping technique instead, starting with some oversized pieces of fabric and tucking where necessary. This worked out far better for my body shape.

We also had to taper the bottom of the bodice upwards to allow for high hips. This took some considerable inches off but it really helped the fit.

Making the bodice

I made the bodice first, keen to get it done and ready for attaching the skirt. Usually I would have left the side seams in order to attach the skirt, but time was limited so it made sense to get the bodice complete and ready. I went for a lining on the bodice. Weirdly, this pattern doesn’t include lining. The method for full-lining a bodice with a CB zip is really easy. To add a little detail, I sewed half down the back of the bodice so the zip only starts halfway down the back. A really nice touch on this dress would have been to line it with a different colour and fold these bits down and button them, a very 50′s style. I ended up having a big problem once everything was in place… the lining (which has no give) was simply too small in comparison to the bodice. The result after I hand-stitched it in was a wrinkle right across the belly. I ended up ripping this seam out and simply finishing the lining with a zigzag stitch, leaving it loose inside the dress.

Attaching the skirt

To create the skirt, we draped it directly onto my body. This probably isn’t very easy to do if you’re sewing by yourself but if you have someone who can help, it’s a really easy way to sew. You need to make sure the hips fit, and then pleat or dart into the bodice. I chose to go for pleats, which have a softer look. We started with three rectangles and just worked them until they fit! Plenty of tacking is required for this method. My new Oekaki Renaissance machine has a tacking feature which is so much quicker than hand-tacking! So I used that.

Hemming

To hem, I had a go at using my machine blind hem stitch. This stitch grabs tiny little threads every few centimetres, making a hem that can hardly be seen. Also on my Oekaki Renaissance, this stitch is a really quick way to make a professional hem.

Wearing the dress: Final Simplicity 2548 Pattern Review

Suddenly, the day was upon us! The dress worked really well with my robes and I was very pleased with it! The bodice shape was perfect for me, although the skirt was maybe not as fitted as I would have liked. But overall, I’m really pleased with the dress!

Simplicity 2648 Dress Pattern Review

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Francesca Haselden

Francesca is the owner of EatSleepKnitUK, she also works for Toyota Home Sewing and is a web developer 9-5!

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