Simplicity 2648 Pattern Review: Let’s make a toile!
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Exams are over, uni is over, life has begun! I’m excited but also incredibly sad to be saying goodbye to my home for four years, my friends, my lifestyle. But it’s on to new things. I’ve moved to Surrey and am getting a feel for a new county, I’ve got a new job which I love and I’ve been touring around a bit with Toyota Home Sewing launching the new Oekaki Renaissance machine in Paris and London which has been great! But all of this has meant I’ve neglected my dressmaking…
The craft room has only just been unpacked, despite me moving in 6 weeks ago. Just so many things to organise! But I’ve finally finished, all the better as I need to make myself a dress sharpish for my graduation on the 16th July!
So here we go. I decided to make a toile before jumping into this Simplicity 2648 pattern. From the Amazing Fit range, it has given me a few interesting customisations that will hopefully flatter my figure and keep my comfortable for what will be a long day. I opted for Variation C in the end with the cap sleeves as I felt they’d give me a little more coverage but still be light and easy to wear.
I’m working with about 3″ ease on the garment for a fitted look. The “curvy” skirt option gives 52″ as the finished size, including ease. I am measuring around 55″ on the hip, so will be looking to wear a 58″ skirt. Therefore I’ll need to add 6″ of extra room distributed evenly around the hips. There are 5 seam lines running here. I tend to measure my body in inches but work in centimetres so this required some maths! 15.24cm needs to be added to the hips. I need to divide this by the number of seams (5) then half that number to account for each raw edge on the seam. This comes in at about 1.524cm. Doesn’t seem a lot when you think about it, but it makes a difference when distributed across all 5 seams! I’ll round it down to an even 1.5cm to add.
Because I am planning to get this pattern looking perfect for my body shape (hoping to make a few more dresses) I’ll be transferring the pattern onto heavyweight sew-in interfacing. This stuff is excellent for pattern making as it doesn’t tear or get damaged. You can keep your perfectly adjusted patterns neat and tidy, ready to use again and again! For now I’ll be drawing onto thick card, and once I’m happy with the fit of the toile, I’ll transfer the toile pieces to my interfacing. I drew the curve using a flex curve to ensure that it still met the same size at the waistline, and the same size at the hem as well. I’d rather take it in if it’s too big than let it out. The result is a skirt that has evenly distributed extra room. Now onto the rest of the dress. I chose to go for the C cup top which I feel will give me more room around the bust. At 38C for my bust I need to make the largest size. My fear is that along with being busty and wide around the ribcage, I’m also quite short waisted and short in the shoulders. I’m going to cut to size and then adjust my toile if needed. I expect there will be fitting issues regarding the top seam at the shoulder.
Unfortunately the first go at my toile was less than pleasing. The bust sat way too far apart and the hip adjustments were too curvy. Also it didn’t fit around the bum! But this is why a toile was made…
The Second Toile
The second toile went much better! I went a bit off-piste for this and sewed it up with tacking, then pinched and pulled it on my body until it fit how I wanted. This involved cutting several extra inches at the skirt and then joining it up to match the side seams. I also took the front princess seams in at the waist as it was far too baggy, again by pinching and pinning until I was happy with the shape. The bust looks much cleaner and the ship shape hangs better too.