Lekala #5917 Waxed Jacket: Plackets and Collars
"Learning how to make a waxed jacket. This is a pretty basic wind jacket with pockets and a drawstring waist. It's easy to put together but as with all Lekala patterns you need to have your own ideas about construction."Buy it for £1.76
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Finally I have got to the finishing run on my jacket. After constructing the lining with sleeves completely, and the same for the outer, I attached the placket and the collar to Lekala #5917. The hood I had planned may come at a later date.
Putting the lining and outer together – Lekala #5917
Once I’d sewn the collar pieces onto the jacket outer and lining, I was ready to sew the whole thing together! I decided to insert the zip just into the outer piece first, so that it was firmly in place. I also added the placket piece by just top-stitching it in place.
Finally, to bring the two pieces together for the first time, I placed them right sides together. I then sewed all the way from the bottom front hem, up the side of the zip, around the collar (attaching the collar pieces together) and back down the other side of the zip. This meant that the piece was firmly put together, and just needed handstitching. Once turned and pressed, I pulled the sleeves down. I decided to just turn up the sleeves, unhemmed for now, so that it was ready for my holiday! To complete the bottom hem, I turned the fabric up and whipstitched the lining in place. I also topstitched around the collar to keep it nice and flat.
Adding the drawstring
The drawstring is the only real fitted part of Lekala #5917, it’s what gives the jacket the most definition. I put eyelets into the front and ran piping cord round the waist, I then sewed the drawstring casing simply by using the lining and outer. I sewed two tracks of stitches from eyelet to eyelet, with the cord already inside, so that I didn’t have to push it through later. Finding the right cord was really difficult. I originally had some blue cord but it was shiny and bright, not at all what I wanted. I was determined to find a matte/cotton black or blue cord, but couldn’t find anything. In the end I purchased some white standard piping cord (like cord used for furniture piping) and dyed it using Dylon. I only dyed it once, and the result was a little lighter than pure black and more dark blue. So exactly the matching colour of the jacket! It was easy to dye, I added it to a stainless steel bowl along with salt and let it soak for a while before rinsing it out. I added cord ends and cord locks in place to keep it secure. I used hot-glue to secure the cord ends on as I couldn’t get them to fit, even with hammering.
Finally, Lekala #5917 was complete!
It was so great to finish this and wear it on holiday. I loved the jacket, it was perfect for wearing out and about the whole time we were in Jersey. It blocked the wind beautifully. Luckily we didn’t have any rain so I haven’t tested out the waterproofing. I did rewax the jacket after making it with Barbour Thornproof wax which was an interesting task!
Ultimately there isn’t much I would change. I would make the collar longer, as it had a habit of flipping up. I would also add some more poppers into the corners of the collar so it could be snapped in place. I would also add an extra inch or two to the hip segment of the jacket, as it’s quite snug, but that’s just my figure.