Lekala 5917 Waxed Jacket: Getting Started

lekala 5917

Project Info

Sewing Pattern: Lekala Wind Jacket 5917

"This is a pretty basic wind jacket with pockets and a drawstring waist. It's easy to put together but as with all Lekala patterns you need to have your own ideas about construction."

Francesca Haselden 5

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Let’s get started! The first thing I needed to source was, of course, the waxed cotton. Waxed jackets can be created by applying the wax to the garment afterwards (typically paraffin wax is used) but I’ve decided to use pre-waxed fabric. You can find this stuff pretty cheaply and it’s not hard to come by. While green is the traditional look, I’ve chosen to go with a dark navy. The wax on the fabric makes the fabric a lot darker, which I quite like.

I’ve also decided to line this jacket with flannelette. It’s a soft, highly brushed cotton that will be really cosy on the inside of the jacket whilst still being breathable. I have gone for a green and blue tartan fabric which I think will look fab against the navy. I’m accenting the whole thing with the inclusion of some Liberty Tana Lawn in William Morris’ Strawberry Thief print which is really pretty.

And a final touch, I’ll be using a little bit of cotton corduroy to line the inside of the collar, which gives it a real country feel. I went for a black colour instead of the navy to make it stand out a bit more.

Barbour is famous for it’s wax jackets, synonymous with the countryside.


But it’s not just fabric I need. There are quite a few notions required on this jacket! The waist needs some cord, plus cord ends and eyelets to allow the jacket to be tightened. I will also be using some cord locks to secure the cord in place once it’s pulled to my waist.

And I’ll also be using popper studs, on the pockets and also for the detachable hood. These things need to be hammered into place. It’s a bit more involved but it’s the little things that give a really professional result.

Adding a hood

I want to add the hood, which is not included in the pattern, so I need to draft pieces to create a three-piece hood which will “pop” in place on the collar.

The plan is to apply the poppers to the underside of the collar. But to do this, the collar needs to actually be foldable. At the moment it’s a simple rectangle designed to be straight, so I’ve redrafted the collar piece to make it fold down, and also peaked out the edges a bit. Obviously one piece (the underside) will be cut in the waxed cotton and the other part will be cut in the soft corduroy. The poppers will be unseen, sitting under the neckline, until the hood is put up.

So now the pattern is cut out and we’re all ready to go! On to construction!

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Francesca Haselden

Francesca is the owner of EatSleepKnitUK, she also works for Toyota Home Sewing and is a web developer 9-5!

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