Butterick 6185 Collared Blouse Review
"Butterick 6185 is a multi-pattern with loads of separates. The blouse and jacket feature a lovely double collar which gives this pattern a vintage look. The pattern is well drafted but I still needed an FBA."Buy it for £4.95
I wanted to create something that was simple, easy to wear and without using too much brain power. I fell in love with Butterick 6185 the first time I saw it and really wanted to make the top with the double collar. It has a sweet vintage look but looks great with jeans and a simple cardigan.
I started by creating a toile using cheap white polycotton. But as I wanted to practice the collar properly, I ended up working a full version in the toile material. So I got two tops out of one!
For the main top I used this pretty 1950s striped cotton. The stripes were interesting to work with and I played around with the direction on the collar to add interest.
Getting the fit right
I started by doing a simple tissue-fit on Queenie, who matchs my body measurements. As you can see from the pictures below, it was a little too small at the hips.
I decided to do a Full Bust Adjustment, as the pattern measurements state 44″ for the bust. My full bust is 48″ but my high bust is only 42″ (I wear a 38FF bra size) so I needed to add a full 4″ difference to the pattern at the bust. I then carried this extra down into the hemline so that it gave me 4″ across the waist and hips too. It worked out perfectly, though I actually think I could have got away with a size 20 cut from the pattern. I also added 6″ to the hem but it was way too much. I ended up with 4″ extra on the hem and it’s just right. As the pattern is, it’s quite short.
If you’ve never considered a full bust adjustment before (most people do need it!) I strongly recommend you purchase Full Busted: Sew Clothes That Fit. It’s a great DVD which takes you through the processes for sewing full-busted clothes, published by Palmer Pletsch who are well known for excellent fitting books and DVDs. I sat down and gave this DVD a watch to get the hang of what I needed to do. It’s so useful seeing it done in front of me!
After I completed the FBA I created a quick toile using polycotton (the same that I used on the undercollar) and was much happier with the result.
Sewing Butterick 6185 with french seams
I’m a big fan of french seams. They’re great for creating a tidy inside and out, which is something I’m trying to ensure I do with all my makes. Recent creations have not gone so well as I have not paid attention to the entire garment. There is nothing worse than fraying raw edges!
French seams are really easy to do and don’t take a whole lot of time. I did french seams at the side seams on this top. I pinked the raw edges under the collar, which aren’t seen. I also did a standard single-folded hem on the facing pieces (interfaced with cotton fusible) to keep them looking clean and tidy.
Creating a sharp collar for Butterick 6185
The collar here really is the main event, so it’s important to get it looking just right. In order to get those points nice and crisp I used a very short stitch length and then clipped the corners close to the tip. One of my favourite books, Tailoring, recommends this technique. By using a short stitch length you ensure the seam is as tight as can be. You then snip up towards the point to create a sharp turning angle. This is much better than simply chopping the end corner off, which can give a bulky point.
Keeping it under budget
This ended up being a really budget project. The pattern cost me £8 from Amazon (with next day delivery, woohoo Amazon Prime! If you want to buy Butterick 6185, sign up for a 30 day free trial and you’ll have this pattern ready to start sewing tomorrow!
The white polycotton cost only 99p a metre. And the striped cotton only £5 for the whole lot (as it was a vintage piece). So I made two tops for the grand total of £15! That’s a bargain! Now I just need to sew myself the jacket too to get the maximum out of this pattern…
Review of Butterick 6185 Blouse
I’m really incredibly pleased with the outcome of this pattern. The garment is so easy to wear, and there were no major headaches at all.
The only thing I really don’t like about this garment is the armholes. They seem to have a peculiar sharp angle at the underarm. I trimmed it rounded a bit but I should have rounded it even more. It was quite difficult to get a neat double-folded hem at the base of the armscye for that reason.
I also wouldn’t interface the collar, as it’s a tad too heavy in comparison to the softness of the blouse. The collar would have been fine just fashion-fabric with no interfacing, I think. I only interfaced the back pieces but it’s still too much.
If you like this pattern, let me know what you think below in the comments! Would you make this? Are you a fan of a double collar? What would you change?