Butterick 5685 Review: Getting Started
"This coat has a cute 60s swing style, bracelet length sleeves and a large overlap collar which is really on trend. The pattern is great and well drafted, but it requires some adjustments to the construction."Buy it for £7.25
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This is going to be a really big project. I wanted to make something that I knew I could enjoy for years to come, and something made out of a high quality fabric. Cashmere is a favourite of mine, and I thought the Butterick 5685 would look excellent in cream of camel colours. I chose to go for cream, as it is a really special colour for an outerwear garment and something quite special.
I started looking around at wholesalers off end-of-roll cashmere and wools and found a lambswool blend. As much as I love cashmere, it’s not a very hardwearing fabric and is likely to pill in certain places. The addition of lambswool to the blend gives it hardiness but the cashmere will keep it luxuriously soft.
Butterick 5685 Fabric Choices – Outer Fabric
I found this gorgeous cashmere/lambswool blend with a herringbone finish on one side. It’s manufactured by Marzotto of Italy. The group has been manufacturing fine fabrics for 175 years! They have some really charming adverts from the 40s and 50s too.
The fabric has a fine herringbone structure on the one side. It will require a bit of matching at the shoulders but it’s subtle enough not to make a huge difference to the look. It’s also useful to have a bit of texture to help disguise the pad stitching and permanent tacking of the canvas which will go underneath.
Butterick 5685 Fabric for Lining
Usually a polyester lining fabric or satin can be used for sewing garments, but as I was using such a nice outer fabric it made sense to use a more premium lining. Silk is the obvious choice. It is soft and slippery (exactly what we want from a lining) but is also breathable. It will line the coat beautifully and help regulate temperature.
Because it’s going to be inside, I decided to seek out the craziest print I could. It’s always fun picking something wacky that you wouldn’t be comfortable wearing on the outer and apply it to the inner! The moment I saw this Italian Renaissance style fabric I knew it was perfect. It’s so ridiculously lavish.
It reminds me a lot of Dolce and Gabbana or maybe even Ted Baker’s girlwear prints from last year.
My plan is to centralise the pattern pieces over the cherubs so that the inner of the jacket opens up to show the full panel. I can use the rest of the silk for the sleeves and front panels where it doesn’t matter so much. I also plan to sew up some faux fur collars to put over the top of this, so I will use this fabric for the backing.
Butterick 5685 Fabric for Interfacing
The pattern suggested using fusible interfacing. But instead I’m going to use a couture fabric, horsehair. Horsehair weave is made using the brushings of horses hair and creates a stiff, natural interfacing which is typically used in couture and tailored jackets. It needs to be applied with permenant tacking stitches to the outer fabric of the garment. I will be using it on the straight grain for most pieces, and using it on the bias for the collar and sleeve caps. If you’re after some yourself, check out MacCulloch & Wallis who supply a wide range of different couture tailoring canvases for use in projects like coats and jackets. All have their different uses.
The coat features four buttons on the front, as it’s double breasted. In fact two of the buttons are “false” and are not used, instead these buttons are backed with pop studs on the inside to keep the double-breast closed. The other two are functional.
Mother of Pearl seemed like a good option for this fabric as the cool colour will offset the cream fabric really well. No one does mother of pearl better than Art Deco! I sourced some antique buttons (around 1920) from the Vintage Button Emporium site who sell a lot of different buttons from different decades. These large 15mm buttons have a brass shank. I also picked up two adorable little thistle buttons which I will probably use on the cuffs (purely decorative) or perhaps on the tips of the shawl collar. The thistles (or maybe they’re meant to be pineapples?!) are self-shanked.<